Faucet Repair Services
Faucet Repair Services
A dripping faucet is almost never about the faucet. It is about one worn part inside it, and which part depends entirely on what kind of valve is sitting on your sink.
There are four mechanisms in common use, they fail in four different ways, and they take four different sets of parts. That is why the fix your neighbour swears by does nothing for your kitchen, and why the plumbing aisle at the hardware store is such a discouraging place to stand. Our faucet repair services begin by identifying the valve, because every decision after that follows from it. Kitchen, bath, laundry room, hose bib: if it has a handle and it is doing something it should not, we work on it across Everett and Snohomish County.
Reviewed by our customers
What our customers say about our faucet work
Four faucet mechanisms live under that handle
Before anything gets taken apart, we work out which one you have. You can usually narrow it down yourself from the handle alone.
| Valve type | How you can tell | What wears out | Usual fix |
|---|---|---|---|
| Compression | Two handles that keep tightening the harder you turn; typical of older fixtures | The rubber washer and the brass seat it presses against | Washer & seat |
| Ball | A single handle swivelling in a rounded dome, common on kitchen sinks of a certain era | Springs, rubber seats, and the slotted ball itself | Rebuild kit |
| Cartridge | One or two handles that lift and turn smoothly, with no tightening feel | The cartridge, most often its O-rings | Cartridge swap |
| Ceramic disc | One handle on a wide cylindrical body; the action feels solid and short | Inlet seals, or the discs themselves once grit scores them | New seals |
Identification is not academic. Cartridges are brand-specific and frequently model-specific, so a Moen part will not save a Delta, and two faucets from the same maker a few years apart can take different stems. Getting this wrong is how a simple job turns into three trips.
Local water shapes which of these fails first. Everett draws its municipal supply from the Sultan Basin up in the Cascades, and that water is on the soft side, which is fairly kind to rubber seals. Homes on private wells around Snohomish, Monroe and the outskirts of Lake Stevens live under different rules: sediment and iron move through the lines, and grit is what scores a ceramic disc or cuts a groove in a brass seat. Meanwhile the older housing stock across north Everett and central Marysville still carries plenty of two-handle compression valves, which are cheap to rebuild and genuinely worth rebuilding.
Where lead at a tap actually comes from here
Everett has eliminated lead lines and connections from its distribution system, so the water arriving at your property line is not the source. The city states plainly that lead measured at a household tap "is most likely due to the corrosion of household plumbing systems" — the fixtures, solder and supply lines inside the house. Everett’s most recent monitoring round tested 108 homes and returned a 90th-percentile result of 2 parts per billion against an EPA action level of 15 ppb, with the highest single reading at 10 ppb. It is a good result, and it also locates responsibility precisely: on older fixtures and the brass behind them, which is exactly what gets replaced during a faucet swap.
Source: City of Everett, Lead and Copper Inventory (everettwa.gov), Everett WA, 2021 monitoring round, pulled Aug 2026. EPA action level per the federal Lead and Copper Rule.Where the water shows up tells us what broke
Three complaints cover nearly everything people call about, and each points somewhere different.
A drip from the spout
This is a sealing failure inside the valve. The tap is off, the handle is off, and water gets past anyway. On a compression faucet it is the washer, or the seat that the washer closes onto, which by then has usually gone rough enough to eat new washers. On a cartridge or disc faucet it is the cartridge or the inlet seals. The distinction people miss: a drip that continues indefinitely is a valve problem, while a few drops right after shutoff and then nothing is often just the spout emptying itself.
A leaking faucet base
Water appearing around the bottom of the handle or collecting on the deck while the tap is running points at O-rings, not the valve seal. On a kitchen faucet with a swivelling spout, the O-rings around the spout body are the usual suspects, and they leak only when the water is on. This is the failure people mop up for months without reporting it, because a wet counter reads as splashing. It is not splashing, and left alone the water works its way under the sink deck and into the cabinet.
A puddle in the cabinet
Under-sink water is the one worth taking seriously the same day, because the cabinet floor hides it while the particleboard drinks it. The candidates are the supply connections at the shutoffs, the mounting nuts on the faucet shanks, the sprayer hose and its quick-connect, and the drain assembly, which has nothing to do with the faucet at all. If everything at the fixture is dry and the cabinet still gets wet, the source is further back in the wall, and that is where we switch to the equipment that finds hidden leaks instead of guessing at fittings.
Faucet repair first, or is the fixture the problem?
We repair by default. A faucet body that is sound and a mechanism with parts still in production is a repair, and a rebuilt quality fixture will generally outlive a budget replacement bought to end the argument. Solid brass bodies from the better manufacturers are worth keeping, and many of those makers back their cartridges long after the sink has stopped looking new.
Replacement earns its place in a few specific situations. Once the body itself is cracked or the casting has corroded through, no part fixes that. When parts for the mechanism are discontinued, which happens quickly with builder-grade fixtures installed by the pallet in the newer subdivisions around Mill Creek and Lake Stevens, a repair becomes a scavenger hunt. When a faucet is leaking from the spout, the base and the supply connection all at once, the fixture is telling you something. And when the finish has pitted through to the metal, cosmetics and function usually failed on the same schedule.
In a kitchen the decision rarely stays about the faucet. Sink type, sprayer configuration, filtered-water lines and disposal clearances all interact, which is why the choice sits inside the wider kitchen plumbing picture rather than off on its own. We will tell you which way we would go and why, and the recommendation does not change based on which one pays better.
Between service calls, faucets ask for very little maintenance, and the little they ask for pays for itself. Unscrew the aerator every few months and rinse the screen — weak flow at one tap is usually grit sitting in that screen rather than a valve on its way out. Work the shutoffs under the sink open and closed once a year so they do not seize in the position you least want them in. Dry the deck rather than leaving water standing around the base, because that is what creeps under the mount and swells a cabinet top from the inside. And when a handle starts feeling gritty, book the service then: a cartridge pulled early comes out whole, while faucets left to grind for another season weld it into the body and turn a twenty-minute job into an extraction.
Faucet installation services, and the parts of the job that go sideways
Swapping a faucet looks like a short job right up until it meets the reality under the sink. Two things account for most of the trouble.
The first is the shutoff. Modern quarter-turn stops are dependable. The older multi-turn valves found under sinks in a lot of Everett, Edmonds and Mountlake Terrace homes seize in place with the packing dried hard, and the act of closing one is frequently what makes it start weeping. So on an older house we assume the stops are candidates for replacement and say so before anything is dismantled, because the gap between swapping a faucet and shutting down the water to the whole house is not a conversation anyone wants to have mid-job.
The second is hole spacing, which quietly decides what you are allowed to buy. Sinks and countertops come drilled single-hole, centerset, or widespread, and a replacement has to respect what is already cut. A single-hole faucet can be fitted to a three-hole sink with a deck plate. Going the other direction, from one hole to three, means new drilling or a new sink. Undermount basins on stone counters add their own difficulty: everything is reached blind from below with a basin wrench.
Find the water
Where it appears, when it appears, and with the handle in which position.
Identify the valve
Brand, model and mechanism, so the right parts turn up the first time.
Price it in writing
Repair or replace, both laid out, before a wrench goes anywhere near it.
Do the work
Rebuild or install, plus the shutoffs and supply lines if they are past it.
Test and tidy
Run it hot and cold, check every joint under pressure, dry the cabinet.
New fixture already sitting in the box?
Bring your own faucet and we will install it. We will also tell you honestly if the supply lines or stops underneath should be replaced while the cabinet is open.
Why us
Small jobs get the same crew as the big ones.
A faucet is not a prestigious call, and plenty of outfits treat it that way. Danika Plumbing & Electric sends the same licensed, bonded and insured people who handle repipes and water heaters, working out of a shop on Airport Road in Everett rather than a dispatch centre three states away. You get a written price first, and the person who quotes it is the person who does it.
(425) 374-1557Licensed & bonded
WA State L&I registered and insured on every call, large or small.
Repair before replace
If the fixture is worth saving, we say so and we save it.
Written price up front
You see the number before we start. No surprise line items.
Plumbing + electrical
One company for the sink and the disposal circuit under it.
Sinks we get called to around the county
The shop is at 11015 Airport Road in Everett, and the working radius covers Marysville, Lynnwood, Edmonds, Mukilteo, Mill Creek, Lake Stevens, Monroe, Snohomish and Mountlake Terrace, along with the unincorporated stretches between them. Everett addresses can also read the city-specific page on faucet installation and repair in Everett, WA. Faucet work tends to arrive attached to something else somebody noticed under the sink, which is why it sits alongside the rest of our plumbing services rather than in a category of its own.
Straight answers
Faucet questions we hear most weeks
Why does my faucet still drip after I replaced the washer?
Is it worth repairing a faucet or should I just replace it?
How much do faucet repair cost in Everett?
Can you fix a leak at the base of the faucet without replacing it?
The shutoff valve under my sink will not turn. What now?
You have listened to it long enough.
Tell us which sink and what it is doing, and we will bring the parts that valve actually takes.
Licensed · Bonded · Insured · WA L&I Registered · 11015 Airport Road, Everett, WA 98204